The Fitzgeralds left their elegant Long Island home not for gay Paris, but Antibes, a much less expensive region. Inspired by his new surroundings, Scot Fitzgerald shut himself away and finished off his masterpiece Tender is the Night.
Much has
changed since then, but Antibes is still an ideal place to escape to. Historic, delightful, and beautiful, this
little town halfway between Nice and Cannes is much less busy than the rest of
the glitzy Riviera.
What makes
Antibes, different from the rest of the Riviera hotspots?
For me, it’s the old town with its narrow cobbled
streets, the choice of outdoor cafés, and the atmosphere. The locals, however, are proud of:
n The Picasso Museum
n The Antibes Market
n The Millionaire’s Port
They are right, here are three must-see spots in Antibes.
It would be
a pity to miss the Musée Picasso at the Chateau Grimaldi. Spectacularly positioned, the 14th -century
chateau houses a magnificent collection of the maestro’s paintings, lithographs,
and ceramics.
As you look out from the castle’s fortified
windows unto the magnificent port of Antibes on the Côte d’Azur, you’ll
understand Picasso’s enthusiasm when he first came to live in Antibes. The
Spanish painter and sculpture had grown tired of busy Paris and together with
his lover, Françoise Gilot headed down to the calmer gentler South of France in
the summer of 1946. Picasso’s works may be seen all over the world but it was
here in Antibes that he created some of his most impressive oeuvres. Musée
Grimaldi became Picasso Museum, the first museum dedicated to Picasso in France
in December that year.
Picasso is
the big draw but go here to discover the lesser known Russian artist Nicolas de
Stael. The modern abstract painter attracted attention in both Paris, and New
York and was just getting known for his success, at the peak of his career when
he moved to Antibes where sadly he took his life. Nicolas de Stael’s unique
consideration of space, light, and color comes over quite strongly when we look
at his vast canvasses such as Le Concert, his last painting.
The covered
food market in Antibes is only a few streets away. Here’s where you get carried away by fresh
Provencal goodies – olives, fruit, herbs, spices, sausages and for cheese
gourmets an excellent array of fine cheeses from the mountain. Run daily from 6
to 1 p.m from June, the market in Antibes is not as large as the market in Nice,
but, you’ll have time to talk to the local friendly vendors such as olive
vendors who will let you will let you try before you buy. Voted by CNN as one of world’s ten best fresh food markets, this is one of the most visited markets
on the French Riviera. Admittedly, prices are a bit high, the fruit and
vegetables a little more expensive than other markets, but everyone loves the
unhurried atmosphere, the delicious smells, and gourmet food.
The Millionaire’s Port
Be mesmerized at the home port of some of the
world’s largest mega yachts. You won’t
bump into any millionaires, but you can marvel at the super yachts and mega
yachts in Port Vauban. Nicknamed the Millionaire’s Quai, this is one of the
largest harbors: it’s freely accessible to everyone so you can walk, stare in awe
and observe the young mostly international crew working and preparing the yachts
for the summer season from May to October.
Like all of
the French Riviera, Antibes is delightful and wonderfully scenic, but, Antibes
has more, it has a relaxed feel to it, it is inspiring. Fitzgerald and Picasso
followed their heart; they wrote painted and enjoyed this special place in the
sun.
One more thing you should think about - Antibes is still relatively peaceful, but it might not be for long - check it out this summer.
One more thing you should think about - Antibes is still relatively peaceful, but it might not be for long - check it out this summer.
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